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Cuyo is in blue In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.
This is the 7th of a seriesEarly one morning, just before sunrise, I woke up early to take a short walk and take photos along the shore where a fishing boat was beached into the shallow water for a few days already. After a few minutes of seeing, composing, setting and clicking, I started to notice a group of fishermen starting to pull at a rope. They were trawling the shallows and this got me curious since I haven’t seen this before. I went to them and started shooting. There were about 10 - 15 men waist deep and pulling the net.
It was a big net that the first time I saw it, was stretched probably a hundred feet at both ends with the edges kept afloat with rubber cylinders. The men pulled and tugged and seeing their efforts and faces, it seemed, quite heavy.
For the next 30 minutes, they were drawing the net closer to the shore as the area within kept getting smaller and a circle is coming to form. After a while and the catch can already be seen at the center. Fishes of different sizes and types and colors and forms started to splash about as the area holding them started to get smaller. It was a frenzy.
The catch was not that big. The fish caught were usually small but there was a sting ray that one fisherman quickly grabbed and cut the tail to avoid being hit by the poisonous spike (above). There even was a small marine snake that another grabbed and flung far into the water and promptly swam off.
After the catch has been aportioned off, the net is gathered and folded and dried for the next day.
Fishing early in the morning at the coastline.
Cuyo is in blue In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.
This is the 6th of a series.Be careful of what you wish for, it might come true. For many years, Cuyo is a fascination. A sprinkling of islets between Panay and Northern Palawan, I have wondered many times about its isolation, its people and the rich religious cultural heritage found on its soil. It all started way back more than a decade ago when I used to collect butterflies. There was a specific subspecies that can only be found in this island and I was struck by the thought of the possibility of this very remote island with its undescribed and unique species for my discovery. Over the years, I switched to beetles, got interested with Spanish colonial history and with it the old churches and fortresses followed by a sense of adventure and travel. Cuyo’s tug became all the more greater. With the church project, I finally realized visiting these isles, albeit briefly.
I was not able to go around much except spend a week at the town proper, Magsaysay and an overnight stay in Agutaya, another island before proceeding to Culion since I have to wait 4 days for the next trip to Palawan. Because of the short stop, I vowed to come back again some other time. And longer.
At the town center.
Cuyo is a municipality of Palawan with a total population of around 18,000 (census 2000) dispersed in 17 barangays with its own language. Fishing and agriculture are the main industry and top products are coconuts/copra and cashew. Life here is slow paced and bucolic. The main town center is quite small that walking through its streets can be accomplished in just a few hours. Modern houses mix with the old and while electricity is present, when I was there, power is every other day. Not really much can be done here but if you want to just relax, want simple joys, fresh seafood and willing to forego modern amenities, this is a good place. Communication is not a problem here as mobile services c/o Smart, is available. Internet via satellite is also present but when I was there, it was not just working.
Sandy beach in the afternoon.
Beaches, white sandy shores, shallow and deep waters, wild birds, the gentle breezes and familiar sound of the waves is everywhere. Even near the pier and a few meters walk from the inn I stayed at and I was already bathing at the pristine waters located at a tongue of white sand. Here, there is a good view of the town dominated by its fortress church at one side while the rest of the island with its sloping mountain can be seen at the other. It’s so cooling and soothing. A stone’s throw where I was at, and a flock of marine birds were scouring the sand and waters for food.
Sand, sea and sky.
Because of its location, these group of islands offer the tourist and diver unparalleled raw sea adventure. Raw in a sense that the beaches and spots are undeveloped. For the adventurer wanting to experience very out of the way places and weary of the usual beach party venues, this is the place to go. Speaking of resorts, Amanpulo, ultra high end, ultra exclusive and ultra expensive is in one of the islets in this municipality.
Fresh seafood anyone?
Think of cheap and fresh seafood and Cuyo has it. Very rich marine grounds where fishers from different parts of the Visayas and Palawan come. Early each morning (next post) fishermen come to the shore to trawl the shallow waters while some arrive from other islands with bigger catch.
Woman drying grain near the municipal hall.
Cuyo is quite remote. The best time to go is during the dry season as the sea is very treacherous especially when typhoons and bad weather systems affect the country. Transit points are either via Iloilo or Puerto Princesa. When traveling here, bring a basic first aid kit and one’s medications as the hospital is not that well equipped. Food is cheap, however. While there are inns (the one I stayed in is airconditioned and popular with travelers and businessmen and provide a generator if power is not available) I think it is possible to arrange with the mayor for a homestay.
The magnificent cemetery of San Joaquin, Iloilo
In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.
This is the 5th of a series. It is not only old churches that I am fascinated with but I find Spanish colonial era cemeteries, and to some extent, those during pre-war period with their wonderful architecture very interesting. When I get to places, after asking about the churches, I follow it up with: “Is the cemetery here old?”
In the Visayas, and possibly in the entire country, Iloilo has the best samples of colonial era, as well as pre-war cemeteries. Just think of the still intact chapels, the perimeter fence with their wrought iron railings and niches. The best example, perhaps that I have visited can be found in San Joaquin, Iloilo (photo above). It features a grand stairway leading to an equally elaborate and beautiful chapel at the center, all made from cut coral stones.
The octagonal cemetery chapel of Miag-ao, Iloilo.
Not many know it but after visiting the fortress church in this municipality, tourists usually miss this beautiful cemetery with its octagonal chapel at the center. The architecture is not as elaborate as that in San Joaquin but just simple. Its style is reminiscent of the Cabatuan cemetery chapel with its form and three portals but topped with three round openings and a dome.
Three generations: cemetery entrance arch - Spanish colonial period; elaborate pre-war old rich tomb, background; and modern niche, foreground. This is located in Valladolid, Negros Occidental.
Negros Occidental has its share of these beatiful cemteries but not as well preserved as that of Iloilo. Most are remnants or in some municipalities, only the original perimeter fence or portions of it can still be found. In Valladolid, Negros Occidental, only the entrance arch and a crumbling fence are present. But what I do like about this place is that you can readily see the different periods.
A pre-war tomb with its beautiful architecture in Victorias, Negros Occidental.
Victorias in Negros Occidental doesn’t have traces of spanish colonial era cemetery. However, inside its cramped catholic cemetery are fine examples of art deco as well as pre-war tomb architecture.
Tomb of a fallen soldier during World War II, Bago City, Negros Occidental.
On a visit to the Bago City catholic cemetery, only parts of the perimeter fence, entrance arch and niches can be found that are from the colonial period. However, there are several pre-war tombs that can be found. Interestingly, while roaming around, I found one niche of a fallen soldier during World War II.
The church in Silay City, Negros Occidental. Built around the 1930s, the original structure, now a ruin, can be found just beside the present church.
In October of 2006, I visited the remote islands of Cuyo and Culion in Palawan for a photography assignment and passed Negros and Iloilo in transit. This is my account of that journey.
This is the 4th of a series. No doubt about it, I’m a sucker for old churches. That’s why when I travel, the first place that I go to see is the church, especially if it is colonial era. Not to pray, but to admire these architectural wonders as well as to take photos or do some documentation. I always find time to make my own visita iglesia.
For religious heritage lovers, Iloilo and Negros are must go to places in the Visayas. The former is a showcase of the Augustinian legacy as Panay island was where this pioneering order made its mark while the latter was administered by the Augustinian Recollects. Of course, like in other parts of the country, several of these churches have undergone various restorations and renovations that it is now impossible to see still untouched structures.
The San Sebastian Cathedral of Bacolod City.
Dominating the downtown area of Bacolod City is the Cathedral of San Sebastian. I do like its architecture: lofty and solid but elegant as well. Its lines and curves pleases the eye.
More photos inside »
Lone Fisherman on a Mangrove, my favorite image in the exhibit.
Last 24 and 26 May, I visited fellow travel blogger Ferdz’s first monochrome exhibit entitled Living By Water at the Filipinas Heritage Library. It is his tribute to, in his words:
“…water and its significance to how and why people live by the water. “
What piqued my curiosity most were the locations where the images were taken: stilt villages in Basilan and Zamboanga, Itbayat, Lake Sebu, Siquijor and Iloilo. Except maybe for the last one, the rest of the places, especially with Itbayat is something that I must see and want to travel to one day. I would want to know these places and how others perceive these areas let alone interpret it in photographs.
There were memorable images. I especially liked the above photo with its pleasing contrast, composition and subject matter. Technically, I admired his other image titled Home at Sea with really good tonal distribution and impact.
After having said these, I do have comments. Three things:
- Tighter editing. By this, I mean, there are images that are redundant and some, good images notwithstanding, do not fit the theme.
- Tonal variation and contrast. Some images still need to be handled in a way that the full range from the deepest black to the whitest white are present. The relationship of dark and light areas need to be enhanced also as some images looked flat. There are several techniques on going about this.
- Lastly, especially for landscapes, horizons are always important to be straight.
For a first time exhibit, I should say, not bad at all. It takes a lot of courage to have a photo exhibit and present one’s work formally to the world and at the same time put it under scrutiny. Mistakes are also common. In my first major group show, I committed a major blunder in the processing in one of the photos. Now, I look back and learn from that experience.
To Ferdz, I will be looking forward to your next show.
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